February 11, 2007 19:44

“Get The Wave or Get Swallowed Up!!”

English Version

Hey everyone, this is Shun. Today I am going to write both in English and Japanese because there are some people who can’t read Japanese and still who wants to read my blog. Also, I need to improve my English writing skill, so if you find some sentence or word that I should correct, please let me know. Especially YOU, Noah-chan!! Haha!

Well, today I went to surf with Matt (So-cho) again. You know what time I woke up? 4:30am in the morning!! Last night he told me that there’s gonna be a “twilight” around 5:45am, which is the moment right before the sun comes up and it will look like blur in the sky. I thought that would be cool if we can watch it in the water, so we decided to leave around 5:00 am.

I woke up at 4:30am, left my apartment around 4:45am, and then got his house around 5am. He was still sleeping when I got there, but he got ready in a second and we left right away. Oh, don’t forget getting some donuts on a way to the beach!!
(The donut store that we go always is open from early morning. I didn’t know that it was open at 5am, but it was. I asked the lady at the store and she said it is open from 4am in the morning. Wow!! It was nice talking to her early in the morning.)

It was still dark outside. I was watching the moon while I was waiting Matt getting ready, and remembering the feeling that I had when I was traveling in Guatemala and El Salvador. People wake up early in the morning in El Salvador, like 4:30am, and go to work by 5am. They use a bus to their working place, because a bus is a main transportation for everybody in El Salvador, which is the same in Guatemala. People don’t have a car over there, like here in the US, because owning your own car is so expensive. Even people who have a car drive really old, almost broken cars, but as long as it runs, that’s fine, because car is the vehicle to go somewhere, you know?
It is not the thing to impress girls or to feel you are superior to someone else. People here are too materialized and they try to judge people by what kind of things they have. It is a pity thought, at least I think. You are not the car you have. You are not the contents of your wallet.
Well, this is off the topic so let me get back to my story.

Anyway, people in Central America wakes up in early morning. It is a nice feeling to wake up in an early morning, since every second in an early morning feels like the most precious time of the day. Birds are singing, trees are sleeping, and it is just NICE to feel the air of early morning. I try to wake up early every morning from now on.


We got to beach around 5:30am, and the gate of the beach was still closed (since they open it at 6AM) so we went to the Huntington Beach pier to see the twilight from the head of the peer. It was still dark outside and when we got to the head of pier, it was totally dark that I couldn’t see the line of separating the sea and the sun. Yeah, it was scary, feels like I was in a space. Hahaha

Night HB
It was still dark in at the pier

After we spent some time, we went back to the beach, to get in the water. Since it was cloudy today, we couldn’t see the twilight actually, but it was nice to see the sky getting lighter little by little. I felt the power of the sun, lighting up and heating up all the earth just by itself. Nobody can fight over with the power of the sun, huh!?

Then we got in the water. It was COLD, oh yeah. Especially getting the wet suit on which was still wet since we used it yesterday was the toughest moment. I felt like I was sleeping with someone who’s body is too cold like an ice. You know how it feels, right? Woops, excuse me. ^_^

The waves were good, there were so many guys who were trying to get a good wave even it was an early morning. Probably there were more than 30 guys who were trying to get a good wave at the same spot, right Matt?

Everyone was serious, trying to get a wave when it comes. Every wave is the moment that you concentrate on hard. That is why we came to the beach, getting up early in the morning on Saturday, getting in the cold water, and waiting for the wave in a cold, freezing water, which rarely comes. Everyone’s face was serious, but I could tell that everyone was having a blast.

After about 1 hour, I got too cold so we decided to leave the water. When I was paddling back to the shore, Matt told me that the big wave was coming from the behind, and I looked back, and suddenly I saw the big dolphin right in front of me. Wow!! It was huge!! I got kind scared (hahaha) but it was nice to see the dolphin so close to me.

When we got out of the water, I was shivering, having a running nose, my body was aching because I got hit by a board a few times. I got swallowed up by waves for so many times. Yeah, I didn’t do good today, but I could get to know that you can’t underestimate the power of the ocean. It can swallow you, make you turn in the water so many times, and even it can kill you. You got to know that you always have to be serious and cautious when you surf, otherwise you will end up loosing your arm or even worse, your life.

We came back to where we parked his car, trying to take off the wetsuit which is even harder than wearing it. Yeah it was the hardest time today when I was trying to take off the wetsuit than getting swollen up by the waves, because it was TOO tight that I couldn’t get out from there for a while. Damn, it was cold.

Matt suddenly said, “Oh, there is a blond lady in a car”, and I look at where he was pointing at. I thought it was a lady too in a first glance, but when I really looked at her, it wasn’t “her”. It was a dog!!

↓Yeah, this is "Her"

Damn, it really looked like a lady. She even wouldn’t move like a real dog, just watching ahead, not moving at all, as if she gets reward by doing that. What a dog.


It was a nice going to surf in an early morning. When we got in the water it was around 7am, and even when we finish everything, it was still 8:30am. What time is it now? Around 11am? Wow, I got so many hours still left for today!! What a great feeling!!

Everyone, try to wake up early!! It is so nice doing that.


These are Photos form Huntington Beach pier and downtown.
Very nice place. You should come here sometime.












2. Posted by 龍のシェフ   February 12, 2007 00:42
1. Posted by 龍のシェフ   February 12, 2007 00:41